Selasa, 31 Juli 2012

The Costs of Fighting Hair Loss

Learn the Price -- and Value -- of Fighting Hair Loss 



Dealing with hair loss of course has a price, but there are many different hair loss treatment options.

 

It is neither advisable nor possible to tell people how much money they should spend on their hair. How much value, and the proportion of disposable income you put into your appearance -- hair, skin, fitness, clothing -- is entirely personal. Only you can know how your appearance makes you feel and how it might affect your work, relationships and overall sense of well being.

But everything has its price, of course. And few people choose to be uninformed consumers. Before deciding how to deal with hair loss, there are several layers to the economic questions: What will this cost, will I have the money necessary to bear that cost, and is there a chance I would qualify for a discount or free service?

This article looks at several hair loss solutions as objectively as possible, including the prices as offered by two prominent studios (in Baltimore, Md., and Phoenix, Ariz.) that offer a broad range of solutions for people who fall somewhere on the spectrum of hair loss, from early-stage thinning to full-out baldness.

What are you willing to spend on your hair?
 
Both our tastes and our hair change with time. The first is voluntary, the second not so much. To address hair loss at all is a conscious decision; therefore, it makes sense to go about it with a preliminary understanding of the options.

We spoke with people who manage two studios, both of which offer a range of services to individuals undergoing hair loss. Each sees hundreds of customers every year who variously have either vague or specific notions about what they can do about their thinning hair.

"You can't make a generalization about what all customers want," explains Marty Greenblatt, whose Eldorado Hair Replacement Center in Baltimore has offered a full line of hair loss treatment options for more than three decades. "Some people want a hair transplant and that's all that they want. But often they do not know the cost."

Dave McKenna, senior image consultant with the Phoenix-based National Hair Centers (NHC), welcomes new clients with a fairly open offering. "We first look at what options are available, pretending as if it's free," he says. "Then we determine what their expectations are and the best ways to go about it."

McKenna and Greenblatt provided general price ranges for the most frequently provided services they offer, as follows:

The costs of hair loss treatments
 
Hair Replacement / Hair Systems. As Greenblatt explains, there are single-unit hair systems, which cost around $1,000, and nonsurgical hair replacement programs that run $2,500 to $4,000 per year whereby clients receive multiple hair systems. What's the difference? A "program" allows the client to wear the hair replacement more often and under more punishing conditions. These hair systems are also lighter and more natural in appearance, but as such, they need to be replaced more frequently. In Phoenix, says McKenna, the prices range from $800 to $4,000, with the higher ranges more often applying to longer and more complex women's hair. "It depends on which manufacturer is used and whether service is included."

Hair Loss Concealers. Scalp shaders and hair loss concealers, applied to either the scalp or thin hair or by spraying or brushing, are recommended to some clients at the Phoenix studio but not supplied there. In Baltimore, some of Greenblatt's clients purchase a product that costs approximately $30 for a three-month supply. "It serves as a nice bandage," says McKenna, "often used as a stepping-stone to other forms of treatment."

Hair Transplant Surgery. There are two procedures in greatest use in hair transplant surgery today. One is follicular unit transplantation (FUT), which involves harvesting a strip of hair from the back of the head, which is then divided into individual follicles before implantation elsewhere on the head. Depending on the number of grafts used (at about $4.00 per graft in Phoenix), the cost might range from $4,000 to $12,000 per patient (it is a medical procedure administered by a physician). A more sophisticated procedure is a follicular unit extraction (FUE), which involves selective harvesting of donor hair from a diffusion of locations on the back of the head, leaving no scar strip (which happens with the FUT procedure). Costs can range from $2,000 to $20,000. "It all depends on the number of grafts," explains Greenblatt, whose experience in Baltimore caps off the cost at about $6,000.

Laser Hair Therapy. Laser hair therapy, the use of lasers to treat hair loss, can follow several paths: from an at-home laser comb ($400-$525), laser cap ($1,200) or laser hood ($2,000) to in-clinic treatments once or twice per week (all prices in Baltimore). In Phoenix, the cost of an in-studio treatment program will range from $1,000 to $4,000 per year, depending on how much clients choose to augment their program with mediceuticals, massages and other services.

Hair Loss Medications. There are two major hair loss medications being sold and marked to those suffering from hair loss.  Both Rogaine (minoxidil; the product is also sold under other brand names by different manufacturers) and Propecia (finasteride) have proven to be effective. Rogaine is now sold over the counter (expect to pay between $20 and $40 per month, or $240-$480 per year), although online generic versions are advertised for as little as $32 for a six-month supply ($64 per year). Propecia must be purchased with a doctor's prescription and costs about $60 per month; brands manufactured outside the United States, Finax and Finpecia can be purchased online as inexpensively as $12 per month, however. In some cases, users of Propecia will purchase a 5-mg tablet (typically prescribed for enlarged prostates), then quarter that tablet. This results in a per-milligram price of $0.66 versus $2.06, which over a year's time would result in about $450 in savings over legitimate, U.S.-manufactured and -sold Propecia. Herbal treatments vary across the board, but Greenblatt says they too can cost in the range of $20-$40 per month.

Hair Replication (tattooing). Hair replication, the use of tattooing tiny dots into the scalp, is relatively new and works in a limited number of situations: on unusual patchy baldness (alopecia areata) where coloring in the scalp helps reduce the contrast with healthy hair surrounding it, and for men who prefer a shaved-head look but for whom the appearance of very closely cropped follicles completes their look. Neither studio we talked with offered the services itself (Greenblatt says he outsources it, and McKenna offers that his company's research indicated insufficient market demand in Phoenix). A perusal of various blogs and websites indicates that tattoo artists who work in this method can charge $250 per hour, taking up to six or seven hours to complete their work on a single client ($1,500, more or less).

Wigs. Described as a full hair replacement (that is, unlike with hair replacement systems, no "live" hair growth is seen), synthetic wigs revolutionized hair replacement in the 1960s by making them affordable. Still coveted are natural, 100 percent human hair wigs, sold at much higher prices. The full range is about $150 to $5,000, not including extremely low-quality costume shop wigs used in theatrical productions and for Halloween.

How to pay for hair loss treatment (and when it might be free)
 
Given the current economic conditions, how are people prioritizing hair loss treatment?
Career counselors routinely coach their clients to make the most of their appearance when interviewing for promotions or when job hunting. That may be a factor in the recession, because the slowdown has been felt only minimally in the beauty business overall.

McKenna explains that how the NHC's clients pay for more expensive hair loss mitigation has changed in the recession. "Five years ago people had cash and financing," he says. "About 65 percent would qualify for a loan through a bank, but that dropped to about 25 percent of customers in 2009. Now that is back up to around 50 percent."

But not all hair loss sufferers can afford hair replacement, even if they need it badly. Fortunately, both studios provide free services in special circumstances. "Anyone 16 years of age or younger gets his or her hair replacement for free," says McKenna, who also works with the Make-a-Wish Foundation. The NHC provides a blanket 25 percent discount to senior citizens, military (active and veterans) and all members of law enforcement. Greenblatt's studio donates wigs to the American Cancer Society for individuals undergoing chemotherapy, as well as hair replacement systems for patients in special situations.

Hair Loss Condition: Traction Alopecia

Traction Alopecia: A Common But Preventable Condition



Some hairstyles can be worn so tight that they cause a type of hair loss condition called "traction alopecia".


The good news is that hair loss due to traction alopecia can be reversible and typically temporary, according to the American Hair Loss Council, if caught early enough. "The bad news is that in the more advanced stages, hair follicles can be so damaged by the trauma, that most women opt to trim it all off and wait to see if hair will re-grow," says Diahna Husbands of Diahna Lynn Hair Studio, who also says she sees at least two clients a week at her hair replacement studio suffering from this type of hair loss.

Signs and symptoms of traction alopecia

Did you ever or do you have to take a pain reliever after getting your braids done?
  • Does your scalp get sore where you wear your ponytail?
  • Has your hairline receded considerably over the years or recently?
  • Do you notice some thinning or hair breakage around your hairline?
  • Do you notice little bumps and redness around your hairline?
  • Have you been wearing cornrows or braids your whole life?
  • Do you have dreadlocks that are long and thick?
  • Do your hair extensions break off?
  • Do you have a hair system that is attached with clips or links?
  • Traction alopecia: How did I lose my hair?

Sometimes traction alopecia can go on for years, which results from wearing your hairstyle too tightly.

While most commonly seen in African American women who wear a full head of cornrows, the condition results from any hairstyle (like a simple daily ponytail) being worn so tightly that it actually pulls out the hairs from the roots and causes inflammation and trauma to the follicles, explains Dr. Valerie Callender, M.D., board-certified dermatologist, specialist in African American skin and hair disorders, and Director of the Callender Skin and Laser Center in Washington D.C. This trauma throws the follicles into a resting state prematurely and hair does not regrow as long as the area is being pulled too tightly. The condition is usually evident in a thinning and receding at the hairline, that's where hairs are pulled the hardest and sometimes infections, pustules, and papules will appear at the site of the damage as well. In addition, many hairs will also just break off from the tension on the hair shaft and you will notice signs of this condition in a thinning around your front hairline area or at the spot where you gather your ponytail.

Traction alopecia can also be caused in both men and women from a hair system attached with clips or links that are pulling too tightly, from hair extensions that are too heavy for the existing hair they are attached to, from a weave that's too tight or even from dreadlocks that have grown too heavy for the scalp and hair to support. "If you ever feel any tension or pain in your scalp, visit your hair stylist immediately to have your style loosened, readjusted, and evaluated," cautions Husbands.

Traction alopecia: Will my hair grow back?

In most cases hair grows back, but it can take about six months or more and an obvious change in hair style to achieve healthy re-growth. Husbands advises, "That means no more relaxing, no more straight irons, no more tight braiding ... you need to let the hair follicles get back to business without putting any additional stress on them. You may need to find a new hair stylist if you've been going to the same one for years all the while you've had this condition! And that doesn't mean braiding it tightly somewhere else on your head ... traction alopecia can occur anywhere on your head. If you still want to braid in another area, just braid much more gently. If you have to take Advil after you get your hair done, then it's too tight!"

For more stubborn cases involving infected follicles and prolonged traction, along with changing your style immediately, the most common course of action is oral and topical antibiotics followed by either cortisone injections and/or topical cortisone cream to reduce the inflammation that is damaging the follicles, explains Callender. "After that, we may prescribe Rogaine to stimulate quicker regrowth at 2 percent generally, or 5 percent depending on the amount and severity of the hair follicle trauma. And the great thing about Rogaine for traction alopecia is that once follicles regain their health and start growing, Rogaine will no longer be necessary. It's one time we can prescribe Rogaine for temporary results that last!"

The bottom line on traction alopecia

Early detection and making the appropriate style change as soon as possible is the key to overcoming traction alopecia. "I also advise most clients to see a dermatologist just to make sure of the reason for the hair loss. A proper diagnosis is also the key to success with any hair loss issue," advises Husbands.

Minggu, 29 Juli 2012

Hair Extensions: Attachment Types


There Exists Several Methods for Attaching Hair Extensions


 

Hair extensions can be attached to your existing hair and be matched to your hair color, texture and style as well as your hair loss needs.

 

If you are balding in large areas of your head, hair extensions are not a viable option for you. However as long as you have a good amount of healthy hair -- even if it's thinning -- you can get hair extensions attached to add more volume and length to your hair. Those suffering from hair loss and thinning hair can avoid further damage from adhesives, chemicals and heat by thoroughly investigating various hair extension attachment types to find an appropriate method.

Sewn-in hair extensions

Custom hair extensions can be sewn in strand by stand for a very natural look. Because of the time and expertise required to attach these, strand-by-strand extensions can be very expensive. With weaves, very small sections of your own hair will be braided close to your scalp. The hair extensions are then sewn into this braided base. Those experiencing hair loss or thinning hair should be aware that weaves, particularly if the attached hair is extremely long, can be very heavy on your scalp. This can cause an uncomfortable tightening and lead to traction alopecia.

Weft hair extensions

Weft extensions are quite popular. A weft is a track of hair that is already attached together in a row and which is applied using one row at a time -- as opposed to strand by strand.

"I love this method," says Norma Bouza, extension specialist at Cristophe Salon in Beverly Hills. "It is supereasy, takes very little time and results in gorgeous, luscious hair. It is a long weft that goes ear to ear, with little metal clamps on it. You simply loop the hair, clamp and seal shut. Wefts are amazing for photo shoots or a nonpermanent extension wearer."

Clip-in wefts are an inexpensive way to add instant volume or length. They can be attached at home, offering versatility for the user without spending hours at the salon.

Hot and cold fusion hair extensions

Hair extensions can also be attached with a variety of adhesives and bonds. Some of these use heat, while others do not.

"Individual pieces can be applied with or without heat," says Bouza. "With heat, these thermoplastic bonds are made mostly of nylon, which is great for the hair when it comes time for removal. You simply crunch the bonds, and they turn into a powdery substance and slide right off the hair, causing less damage. Cold fusion bonds are applied with no heat. They are attached through ultrasonic waves from the tongs. This attachment method is also very good for keeping the hair from being damaged," she adds.

"Protein bonded extensions use heat-free technology that bonds the extension to natural hair," explains Giovanni Mele, owner of Giovanni & Pileggi salon in Philadelphia. "This attachment method is the longest lasting and is ideal for thinner hair textures because the keratin protein bond is less detectable than other methods. You can also apply individual pieces using this technique, which results in more control and a more natural look. There's also no risk of damaging the bonds with hot styling tools.

Mele continues, "With heat-bonded extensions, heat is used to secure the extension to your natural hair. It is long lasting and can be colored and styled like normal hair. Like protein-bonded extensions, you can also apply individual pieces using this technique."

"Infusion hair extensions are made with a keratin tip bond that is then heated and attached around your hair in very small sections," explains Teresa Cliff, a hair colorist and extension specialist at Le Posh Salon and Spa in Los Angeles. "These bonds are soft, so they can be precut to match your hair's density and thickness -- giving you a seamless transition between your hair and the extensions. This method is gentler on the hair, and when maintenance is done correctly, there is little to no damage. You may bathe, go swimming, work out and enjoy your normal routine with ease as long as you follow a few simple guidelines."

Cliff also discusses the benefits and drawbacks of microbead attachments. "Also known as interlock and micro-ring, microbead hair extensions are small bonded pieces that are also attached to the head in very small sections. Instead of having a keratin bond wrapped around the hair it's attached to, these extensions use small metal beads. The size of the beads cannot be customized, but the beads do come in a variety of colors to match the client's hair. This type of extension can get overheated by blow-drying, flatironing or curling iron use. Once the bead is heated, it damages the trapped hair inside and can cause breakage. Also, water can get caught inside the bead, leading to possible corrosion. But if you are more of a wash-n-go kind of person, this would be a good option for you. Another plus is the hair is reusable."

Sandwich hair extension attachments

"I chose to create my line with an adhesive bond, which uses a surgical tape to attach the hair," explains Ron King, L'Oreal Professionnel stylist and spokesman as well as the creator of Ron King Invisi-Tab Hair Extensions. "The benefits of this type of attachment are that the extensions lay flat against the head and remain very natural looking. Additionally, this type of bond provides support from end to end of the attachment, as opposed to strand by strand."

"The tape method is where the extension is attached to the hair by placing one piece under the section of the hair and then one on the top," says Bouza -- "Think of a sandwich." "Then it is heated, allowing it to adhere to the natural hair. This is a great method to get plenty of hair in one section or for a photo shoot."

This sandwich method is ideal for those with fine or thin hair, as well as those suffering from hair loss from chemotherapy or other causes that would make hot applications and harsh chemical attachments undesirable.

Hair extension attachments and hair loss

"When extensions are applied and removed properly, there should be no hair loss," Bouza says. "Educating your client on home care is very important to eliminate hair loss."

Any hair extension attachment can cause hair loss if applied improperly. Talk to your hairstylist about your hair loss issues before deciding which method to use. If your stylist does not have experience dealing with clients with hair loss or thinning hair, it may be best to look for another professional.